Chapter Summaries of

I. THE PROPHECY

This chapter tells the origin story of the great chief Ka-mi-akin. It begins with his father, Ja-ya-yah-e-ha, a Nez Perce and Palouse warrior, who steals a prized sorrel horse and flees his own people1. His journey leads him to the Pisch-wan-wap-pams (Yakimas) in the Kittitas valley, where he adopts the name Ki-yi-yah (Howling Wolf)2222. There, he falls in love with Ka-e-mox-nith, the daughter of the chief, We-ow-wicht3. The tribal medicine man, Wa-tum-nah, prophesies that these two will marry and have a son who will lead the Yakimas in their last great stand against the coming white men4. After eloping, the couple settles among Ja-ya-yah-e-ha's people, where their first son, Ka-mi-akin, is born five years before the arrival of Lewis and Clark5. Ten years later, Ka-e-mox-nith leaves her husband and returns with her three sons to her own people6.

II. ΚΑ-ΜΙ-ΑΚIN - THE GREAT CHIEF

This chapter describes Ka-mi-akin's rise to prominence. He was a self-made leader, respected for his ability as an organizer and his desire for peace, though he was not of full royal lineage777. After the Whitman massacre, he condemned the act and refused to join the Cay-uses in war8. By 1840, a large portion of the Yakimas recognized him as their head man9. Around this time, he traveled to Fort Vancouver and drove the first herd of cattle into the Yakima valley10. A devout man, he requested Catholic priests for his tribe, leading to the founding of a mission on the upper Ah-tan-um in 1847 by Fathers E. C. Chirouse and Paschal Richard11. Ka-mi-akin is compared to Governor Stevens, with both being strong and brilliant, but Ka-mi-akin's ambition was for his people, not for himself12.

III. MCCLELLAN'S EXPEDITION THROUGH THE YAKIMA COUNTRY IN 1853

In 1853, Lieut. George B. McClellan's expedition through the Yakima country brought news of Governor Isaac Stevens' plan to make treaties and purchase Indian lands13. This information, viewed as a threat, led Ka-mi-akin and other chiefs like Ow-hi to plan their resistance14. Ka-mi-akin, declaring "I am for war," organized a council with chiefs Pe-peu-mox-mox and Looking Glass to form a confederacy of all tribes from British Columbia to Oregon15151515. A grand council was held in the Grande Ronde valley in 1854, where nearly every tribe, except for those led by Lawyer, Stic-cas, and Garry, resolved to resist selling their lands16. They decided to define their tribal boundaries to present a united front to Governor Stevens, leaving no lands available for sale17.

IV. THE COUNCIL OF WALLA WALLA

The great council began on May 24, 1855, with Governor Stevens and Superintendent Palmer meeting with thousands of Indians from the Yakima, Nez Perce, Cay-use, and Walla Walla tribes18181818. The commissioners initially proposed two reservations, but were met with strong opposition from chiefs like Pe-peu-mox-mox and Young Chief, who spoke of their sacred connection to the earth191919191919191919. The Nez Perce chief, Lawyer, allied himself with Stevens, claiming to have uncovered a Cay-use plot to massacre the whites, a story the Yakimas considered false20202020. After days of tense negotiations and the dramatic arrival of war chief Looking Glass who opposed the treaty, the commissioners offered a third reservation21. Despite his opposition, Ka-mi-akin, along with the other chiefs, signed the treaties on June 9 and June 11, 1855, ceding vast territories in exchange for about $650,000 and small reservations222222222222222222.

V. DIRECT CAUSES OF THE WAR OF 1855-1856

Following the Walla Walla council, Ka-mi-akin held a council of chiefs where it was decided to warn white men to stop traveling through their country and to kill them if they refused23232323. In August 1855, Qual-chan, son of Ow-hi, killed six miners at a ford on the Yakima River, spilling the first blood24. Not long after, two more white men were killed north of the Ump-tan-um25. The event that precipitated the war was the murder of Indian Agent A. J. Bolon near The Dalles on September 20, 185526262626. Bolon, traveling to investigate the earlier murders, was advised by Ka-mi-akin's brother, Ice, to turn back for his own safety, but was pursued and killed by Ice's son, Me-cheil, and his companions27272727. This murder, along with the influence of a Mormon delegate urging war, prompted Major Rains to send troops into the Yakima country28282828.

VI. HOSTILITIES IN THE YAKIMA COUNTRY

In response to the murder of Agent Bolon, Major Haller led 84 men into the Yakima country in early October 185529292929. On October 5, Ka-mi-akin's warriors engaged Haller's force at Toppenish Creek30. The Indians were nearly defeated until reinforcements led by the fierce warrior Qual-chan arrived, forcing Haller into a desperate retreat back to The Dalles313131313131313131. Meanwhile, Qual-chan was dispatched to meet another force under Lieut. Slaughter, who was tricked into retreating over the Nah-cheez pass by a trader named Edgar32323232. In late October, Major G. J. Rains, with over 700 regulars and volunteers, marched into the Yakima country, leading to the Battle of Union Gap on November 9, where the Indians were defeated by the army's superior numbers and howitzer fire, forcing them to retreat across the Columbia333333333333333333.

VII. FURTHER OUTBREAKS

Following the signal fires from the battle at Toppenish, the Rogue River Indians in Southern Oregon rose up on October 9, 1855, killing numerous settlers34. In January 1856, Qual-chan led Yakima warriors over the mountains to aid Chief Leschi in an unsuccessful attack on Seattle35353535. In March, they returned to fight alongside Leschi against Col. Casey's command at Connell's Prairie, a drawn battle that resulted in the Puget Sound Indians retreating to the Yakima Valley363636363636363636. In May 1856, the chief E-ne-as went to Olympia to discuss peace with Governor Stevens, but his offer was rejected37373737. Colonel Wright's subsequent campaign in the summer of 1856 led to a split between Ka-mi-akin, who wanted to continue fighting, and Ow-hi, who desired peace38. Ka-mi-akin left for the Palouse country, and Ow-hi agreed to surrender39393939.

VIII. FORT SIMCOE

Fort Simcoe was established as a military post on August 8, 1856, by order of Colonel George Wright, who selected the site for its strategic location and good resources40404040. Major Robert S. Garnett was tasked with its construction41. The fort served as a key military position until it was recommended for abandonment in 1859, with the buildings to be turned over to the Indian Department for an agency42424242. R. H. Lonsdale became the first agent in 1860, followed by the corrupt A. A. Bancroft in 186143434343. In 1864, President Lincoln appointed the Reverend James H. "Father" Wilbur, who served as agent for twenty years, bringing justice and progress to the Indians through education, agriculture, and industry44.

IX. BATTLE OF SATUS

On April 8, 1856, Colonel T. R. Cornelius led 241 Oregon Mounted Volunteers across the Columbia and up the Yakima River, camping on Satus Creek45. On the morning of April 10, a scouting party including Captain Absolam J. Hembree was ambushed by Indians led by Ka-mi-akin, and Captain Hembree was killed in the first volley46464646. A fierce battle ensued across the rocky hills and canyons47. The volunteers fought aggressively, dislodging the estimated 300 Indian warriors from their fortified positions48. With Captain Hembree being the only white man killed, the command began their retreat to The Dalles49494949. During the retreat, a Klickitat Indian named Yellow-wash successfully captured and drove off most of the command's horses50.

X. MILITARY OCCUPANCY OF YAKIMA COUNTRY

This chapter describes Colonel Wright's military operations in the Yakima country during the spring and summer of 1856, highlighting the lack of harmony between the regular army and the territorial volunteers51. On June 9th, from his camp on the Naches River, Wright held a council with Chiefs Ow-hi and Te-i-as, who expressed a desire for peace, blaming the Walla Walla treaty for the war52. Ka-mi-akin remained on the opposite bank of the river and refused to meet with Wright53. Wright built a bridge across the Naches, constructed a field fort (Fort Naches), and then marched through the Kittitas and Wenatchee country, concluding that the entire region should be given to the Indians54545454545454. He located the site for Fort Simcoe in August 185655.

XI. YAKIMAS ATTACK GOV. STEVENS

In early September, Governor Stevens held another council at Walla Walla, camping separately from Colonel Steptoe's four companies of regulars56. Ka-mi-akin, believing Steptoe would not aid the governor, planned an attack57. The plan was foiled when Stevens moved his camp next to the regulars upon Steptoe's advice58. On September 19th, as Stevens' party began their return march to The Dalles, they were attacked by warriors under Qual-chan and Quil-ten-e-nock59. A fierce, day-long battle ensued, during which Qual-chan's forces charged repeatedly and Lo-kout, son of Ow-hi, was severely wounded in a hand-to-hand fight60. That night, Steptoe sent soldiers to escort Stevens and his party to safety, foiling Ka-mi-akin's plan to "get Stevens and end the war"61.

XII. INDIAN TROUBLES WITH FT. SIMCOE

In the spring of 1858, an Indian scout named David (Ki-yu-ya), employed at Fort Simcoe, repeatedly stole horses from the bands of Ow-hi and Quil-ten-e-nock62. Outraged by the thefts and the lack of justice, Quil-ten-e-nock went on the warpath alone, attacking a company of miners on the Wen-at-sha River before being killed in the fight63. His death prompted his relative Qual-chan to continue the attack64. Later, Qual-chan's band confronted So-happy, chief of the Priest Rapids tribe, and killed him when he refused to join their fight65. These events, combined with Ka-mi-akin's agitation among the Palouse and Spokane tribes, led directly to Colonel Steptoe's disastrous defeat in May 185866.

XIII. THE SPOKANE CAMPAIGN

Following Colonel Steptoe's defeat, Colonel Wright marched from The Dalles in August 1858 with a large force to subdue the hostile tribes67. He first secured a treaty of alliance with the Nez Perces, who provided scouts for his campaign68. On September 1, he engaged the allied Spokane, Coeur d'Alene, and Palouse warriors at the Battle of Four Lakes, decisively defeating them with superior tactics and weaponry69. A few days later, he defeated them again in a running battle on the Spokane plains70. To completely cripple the tribes, Wright ordered the capture and slaughter of over 800 of their horses71. Facing starvation and unable to fight, the chiefs Po-lat-kin and Garry surrendered, and a final treaty was made at the Coeur d'Alene mission on September 1772.

XIV. GARNETT'S CAMPAIGN

On August 8, 1858, Major Robert S. Garnett was ordered from Fort Simcoe to subdue the warlike tribes of the Yakima and Wenatchee73. Three days into his march, a detachment led by Lieutenant Jesse K. Allen conducted a night raid on a camp of hostile Indians on the Teanaway River74. In the darkness and confusion of the attack, Lieutenant Allen was mortally wounded, likely by friendly fire75. Following this, the command captured the band of a chief named Cat-hote, who had taken no part in the war, and confiscated his property76. Garnett's forces, led by Lieutenants Crook, McCall, and Turner, then pursued another band of Indians deep into the rugged Wenatchee mountains, capturing women and children and executing four men identified as murderers77.

XV. OKANOGAN INDIAN ATTACK

In the spring of 1858, a large party of about 150 miners led by David McLoughlin set out from Walla Walla for the Fraser River gold fields in British Columbia78. Near Crab Creek, a Californian who was lagging behind was killed by a war party led by Qual-chan and Moses79. The main attack came in the Okanogan country, where Chief In-no-mo-se-cha, seeking revenge for the death of his relative Quil-ten-e-nock, had organized an ambush in a narrow canyon80. The miners' scouts discovered the trap, and a fierce, day-long battle ensued81. Six miners, including Jesse Rice, were killed at the start, but the rest managed to escape by crossing the Okanogan River at night, eventually reaching the Thompson River82.

XVI. PASSING OF THE GREAT CHIEFS

This chapter chronicles the tragic end of the Yakima leadership following the Spokane Campaign of 1858. When Chief Ow-hi learned Colonel Wright had been victorious, he went to Wright's camp to surrender, hoping to save his son, Qual-chan83. However, when the unsuspecting Qual-chan arrived at the camp days later, he was immediately seized and hanged84. His brother, Lo-kout, narrowly escaped the same fate and fled85. A few days later, Ow-hi himself was shot and killed while attempting to escape custody86. Ka-mi-akin, refusing to surrender, fled to British Columbia and later to the buffalo country before returning to live at Rock Lake in the Palouse country, where the author met him in 186587. Ka-mi-akin died there about fifteen years later88.

XVII. THE TWO GREAT MEN OF THE YAKIMA WAR

This chapter provides a comparative analysis of the two main figures of the Yakima War of 1855-8: Governor Isaac I. Stevens and Chief Ka-mi-akin89. Governor Stevens is described as a strong, forceful, and politically ambitious man who was too hasty and arrogant in his dealings with the Indians, which ultimately led to the war90. Ka-mi-akin, in contrast, is portrayed as a great hero and patriot among American Indians, ranking with the best in history91. His primary motivation was not personal gain but a love for his people and a desire to protect them and their lands from the destructive influence of white civilization92.

XVIII. SPEECH OF LO-KOUT

This chapter presents a speech by Lo-kout, the son of Chief Ow-hi, delivered in his old age93. In his address, Lo-kout expresses a deep and abiding hatred for the white race, who conquered his people and took their ancestral lands94. He recounts his life as a proud warrior, listing the many battles he fought in, from the defeat of Major Haller at Toppenish to the Battle of Little Big Horn where Custer was killed95. He proudly displays the scars from seven bullet wounds and a crushed skull he received fighting Governor Stevens' forces at Walla Walla96. Lo-kout also confirms that he was "Loolowcan," the guide for Theodore Winthrop, whom he despised for treating him like a dog97.

XIX. ENTERING THE PROMISED LAND

In September 1860, the author, Andrew Jackson Splawn, at the age of fifteen, left his home in Brownsville, Oregon, to join his older brother, Charles, in the Klickitat Valley9898. The chapter details his journey through the historic Willamette Valley, crossing the Cascade Mountains via the Barlow route, and his arrival in the frontier town of The Dalles. After witnessing the brutal hanging of an Indian doctor by other Indians, he reached his brother's cabin in a small valley called Moo-sum-pah. There, he befriended a young Klickitat girl named Lal-looh and made his first journey into the Yakima country101101101101.

XX. THE BEGINNING OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY

F. M. Thorp became the first settler in the Yakima Valley, moving his family to the Mok-see (Moxee) valley in February 1861102. Soon after, Alfred Henson and his family became the first white women to see the Kittitas Valley103. That summer, the author visited Thorp and helped bring the first wagon into the valley104. During a period of high tension with the Indians, the author was saved from a potential attack by the warning of his young Indian friend, Lal-looh105. The severe winter of 1861-62 caused immense losses of cattle and Indian ponies106106106106. The chapter concludes with the story of the medicine man We-i-pah, who seemingly ended the harsh winter by performing a Chinook dance107.

XXI. FERGUSON COUNTY

Ferguson County was created by the legislature on January 21, 1863, but none of its appointed officers qualified, so it was never organized108. On January 12, 1865, the act was repealed and Yakima County was created with a reduced size109. The first appointed officers included Charles A. Splawn and F. M. Thorp, but the county seat was inconveniently located at Fort Simcoe, so the settlers largely ignored the organization110. In 1867, new officers were appointed, and the county seat was moved to Thorp's schoolhouse in Mok-see111. The author, deputized by the sheriff, conducted the first property assessment of the county in the spring of 1868112.

XXII. THE COWBOY OF 1861

In August 1861, at age sixteen, the author was hired by Major John Thorp to help drive cattle 800 miles from the Yakima Valley to the Cariboo mines in British Columbia113. Near Wenatchee, the party was nearly massacred by a band of hostile Indians, but was saved by the timely arrival of Chief Moses and the guide Nan-num-kin114. After a long and difficult journey, they reached Bonaparte Creek, where deep snow forced them to winter115. The author endured a harsh winter with little food, an encounter with the notorious outlaw Boone Helm, and a severe bout of frostbite before Major Thorp returned in the spring of 1862 and they were able to complete the drive116116116116.

XXIII. BACK OVER THE OLD TRAIL

In August 1905, forty-three years after his first journey, the author decided to retrace the old trail from British Columbia back to Yakima117. He recounts the dramatic changes he witnessed along the route118. Towns like Yale, once bustling heads of navigation, were now quiet stops on the Canadian Pacific Railway119. His old campsites at Kamloops, Vernon, and Penticton had become thriving cities with real estate booms120. He reflects on a prophecy made by his old companion, Major Thorp, in 1861, who predicted that steamers would one day run on Okanagan Lake and its shores would be cultivated—a vision that had now come true121. The journey serves as a powerful reminder of the passage of time and the transformation of the wilderness he once knew122.

XXIV. DISCOVERY OF THE BOISE BASIN GOLD MINES

This chapter is the story of the author's brother, Moses Splawn, and his discovery of the Boise Basin gold mines in August 1862123123123. Guided by a Bannock Indian's tale of a basin filled with yellow metal, Moses organized a small party of prospectors, including George Grimes124. After a difficult journey that involved building boats to cross the Snake and Boise rivers, they reached the basin125125125125. They quickly found gold, confirming the Indian's story126. Their discovery was marred by tragedy when they were attacked by Indians, and George Grimes was shot and killed127. The surviving members made a hasty retreat, eventually reaching Walla Walla and sparking a gold rush to the newly discovered basin128.

XXV. GOING HOME

In January 1863, a deep longing for home prompted the author to leave the Thorp's ranch in the Mok-see valley and begin the arduous journey to his mother in the Willamette Valley129. He traveled through deep snow with a band of Satus Indians led by his friend Ken-e-ho130. During a stop at their camp, he was reunited with Lal-looh, the Indian princess who had saved his life two years prior; she pleaded with him to join her tribe131. He continued his journey alone, enduring extreme cold and hardship before reaching the frontier town of The Dalles132. From there, he took a steamer, finally reaching his mother in Corvallis after a three-year absence133.

XXVI. A SIDE STEP INTO THE WILDERNESS

In March 1863, the author and his brother William undertook a perilous pack train journey to the gold fields of Canyon City, Oregon, through territory controlled by the hostile Chief Pa-ni-na134. For five nights, they were harassed by warriors who attempted to steal their horses, but their constant vigilance prevented any losses135. The chapter also recounts another trip to the Cariboo mines in April 1864 with a cargo of bacon belonging to "Long Tom"136. After a difficult journey marked by troubles with Indians and deep snow in the mountains, the author spent several months working for the packer Oregon Jack before making the long trip home on foot and by steamer137137137137.

XXVII. A PASSENGER TRAIN TO THE BASIN

In March 1864, the country was "gold-mad," and the author and his brother William organized a "passenger train," guiding thirty men on horseback from The Dalles to the Boise Basin for $100 per head138. During the journey through hostile Indian country, their vigilance saved their horses from a large Indian raid that wiped out nine other pack trains at Burnt Ranch139. After returning to Umatilla, the author engaged in horse racing against the notorious desperado Matt Bledso140. He then began a business packing freight for a trader named Comstock to Rock Island on the Columbia, a venture that included an encounter with Chief Moses, who roughed up one of his Chinese passengers141.

XXVIII. A TRIP TO BOISE BASIN IN 1865

In April 1865, the author was hired by James Barnes to drive 100 head of cattle to the Boise Basin142. The journey took them through an uncharted desert east of the Columbia River, where they endured 36 hours without rest after the cattle stampeded back twenty miles in search of water143. They eventually found Lewiston and then crossed the treacherous mountains into Idaho144. On Camas Prairie, the author was held up by two Nez Perce Indians who had stolen his horse and successfully extorted his last ten dollars from him145. After a perilous six-day journey up the Little Salmon River canyon, they finally reached the Payette Valley, only to find there was no market for their cattle146.

XXIX. ROBBERS ON THE TRAIL, 1866

In the fall of 1866, while returning from Orofino, Idaho, with money from a cattle sale, the author found himself pursued by three horsemen he presumed to be robbers147. To escape, he spurred his nimble mule, "Jack Rabbit," towards the formidable Lawyer's Canyon148. The pursuers split up to cut off his escape route, forcing a desperate move149. Reaching a fifty-foot gorge with perpendicular cliffs, he dismounted and led his mule down a treacherous rabbit trail, loosening rocks that echoed from far below150. Under the cover of near darkness, they successfully navigated the dangerous descent and the equally perilous climb up the other side, finally reaching the safety of their camp near daybreak151.

XXX. A DRIVE INTO MONTANA

In February 1867, the author and Leonard Thorp began a cattle drive to the Blackfoot mines in Montana152152. They were immediately beset by blizzards and deep snow, forcing them to camp for two months on the Spokane prairie153153153153. After finally crossing the Coeur d'Alene mountains via the Mullen road, they reached the Bitter Root valley and the mines, only to find the market flooded with cattle154. The chapter details the cutthroat nature of the butchers and the difficulty of collecting payment155. The trip was further complicated by the arrival of Major Thorp, who fell ill, and an encounter with a thief named "Dirty Tom," which nearly resulted in a hanging and led to the author being pursued by the law156156156156.

XXXI. TO BRITISH COLUMBIA AGAIN

In June 1868, the author and Willis Thorp drove a hundred beef cattle toward the mines in British Columbia157. Their journey began with a disastrous attempt to cross the Columbia River at Rock Island, where Indians deliberately turned the herd into a whirlpool, though only one animal was lost158. They faced constant harassment from Indians who demanded exorbitant fees at every river crossing159. After delivering the cattle near the boundary line, the author began the long ride home alone160. A series of misfortunes left him without food for four days as he traveled through the desolate country, nearly starving to death before he finally reached a settlement161.

XXXII. ON THE KAMLOOPS TRAIL

In 1869, the author and his brother Billy drove a band of horses, including two racers, to Kamloops, B.C.162. They successfully raced and won against Chief Smo-hal-la's champion and later against the Shus-shwap tribe's champion, winning horses, money, and even wagers from a colony of Englishmen163. After selling their horses, the author was hired by a Mr. Simpson to buy cattle in Yakima164. On his return trip with the cattle, he sent his helper, Captain Horton, ahead for supplies, only to find him and an Indian guide drunk in the sagebrush165. Near Lake Chelan, he was attacked by a band of Indians and saved from certain death by the timely intervention of his old friend, In-no-mo-se-cha Bill166.

XXXIII. A FISHING TRIP

In the summer of 1869, the author hired an old Indian named Mowit to guide him on a fishing trip to I-i-yas (Fish Lake) at the head of the Cle Elum River167. During the trip, Mowit shared several stories and legends168. He told the author about the "Stick Indians," a mythical race of small people living high in the Cascade mountains169. He also recounted his own life story as a great hunter and his tragic love for a maiden named Wa-ke-ta170. Mowit shared the legend of Speel-yi's (Coyote's) prodigal son, who was turned into a stone pillar as a warning to evildoers, and the story of the great water serpent of Wap-tus Lake171.

XXXIV. FIRST SETTLERS

This chapter documents the arrival of the first settlers in the Yakima Valley and surrounding areas. The first to arrive were French squaw men in 1863172. They were followed by William Parker, who settled Parker Bottom in 1864, and Andrew Gervais, the first settler on the Ahtanum in 1864173173. Alfred Henson was the first in Selah valley in 1865, and Augustan Cleman was the first in the Wenas in 1867, bringing the first sheep to the valley174174174174174. John W. Goodwin settled the Cowiche in 1867175. The chapter also lists the establishment of the first general store in 1867, the re-establishment of the Catholic Mission on the Ahtanum in 1867, and the building of the first irrigation ditch by white men in 1871 by the Schanno brothers for the new Yakima City176176176176176176176176176.

XXXV. THE CATTLE INDUSTRY

This chapter traces the history of the cattle industry in the Northwest. The first cattle arrived in Oregon from California in 1836, driven by the Willamette Valley Cattle Company177. Chief Ka-mi-akin brought the first herd to the Yakima Valley from Fort Vancouver around 1840178. The industry grew as Indians traded horses for cattle, and white settlers began driving herds in for grazing in 1860, with F. M. Thorp being the first179. For years, the mines in Cariboo, British Columbia, provided the primary market180. The devastating winter of 1880-81 killed at least 50 percent of the cattle in the region, causing prices to revive and shifting the market focus to Portland and Puget Sound181.

XXXVI. THE COWBOY

This chapter pays tribute to the cowboy of the open range, describing his life as a mix of romance, hardship, and peril182. The author portrays the cowboy as a brave, dependable, and indispensable figure in the settlement of the West, working long hours for small wages183. The narrative covers the spring roundup, branding, and the long drives to market184. It includes several anecdotes illustrating the cowboy's character, such as the tragic death of a young boy named Roarick and the story of "Silent Sam" Hunter's search for his lost love185. The chapter concludes with the author's first shipment of cattle by rail in 1881, which he saw as the beginning of the end for the cowboy's way of life186.

XXXVII. THE LAST DRIVE

The author recounts his final, grueling cattle drive in November 1896, which convinced him to quit the trail for good187. The drive from the Okanogan Valley to Wenatchee was beset by an old-fashioned blizzard, with snow two feet deep and temperatures plummeting to thirty-six degrees below zero188. The narrative details the intense suffering of both the men and the cattle, the desperate search for feed, and the near-death of one of the cowboys, Tennessee John, from the extreme cold189189. After a perilous passage around an icy cliff, they finally reached Wenatchee, where the author announced to his crew that he was quitting the trail, seeing the cowboy's era coming to an end190.

XXXVIII. THE FOUNDING OF ELLENSBURG

In 1870, the author and Ben Burch established a trading post in the Kittitas Valley, which was humorously christened "Robber's Roost" by a friend, John Gillispie191. The store primarily catered to the Indian trade, and the author built a half-mile racetrack nearby to attract customers for horse racing and gambling192. The chapter recounts several amusing anecdotes from this period, including a farcical wedding ceremony performed by Justice Fred Bennett and a comical courtroom scene involving two feuding Irishmen, Pat Lynch and Windy Johnson193. In 1872, the author sold his store and his squatter's right to the 160 acres of land to John A. Shoudy, who then platted the townsite and named it Ellensburg after his wife194.

XXXIX. THE PERKINS MURDER

This chapter details the murder of Mr. and Mrs. Lorenzo Perkins on July 9, 1878, by a band of renegade Indians fleeing the Bannock and Piute War195195195195. The settlers in the Yakima Valley built forts for protection, fearing a general uprising196. Suspicion initially fell upon Chief Moses, who denied involvement and offered to help capture the outlaws197197. After the bodies were found at Rattlesnake Springs, John M. Edwards identified the murderers at White Bluffs198198198198. A posse of volunteers and Indian police, led by Captain William L. Splawn, pursued the killers199. After a confrontation with Chief Moses, the posse eventually captured or killed all the murderers involved, a process that took nearly two years and involved multiple jailbreaks200200200200.

XL. REMINISCENCES OF 1880-1

The author recalls the catastrophic winter of 1880-81, one of the most severe on record, which devastated the livestock industry across the Northwest201. The entire country was covered in a crust of ice over the snow, making it impossible for cattle and horses to graze202. He describes the horrifying sight of thousands of dead cattle piled up along the Columbia and Yakima rivers203. The author personally lost his entire herd of a hundred cattle in a massive ice jam on the Yakima River, a financial blow that forced him to "start all over again"204. The Indians suffered equally, with their ponies dying in their tracks and their medicine men failing to bring the Chinook wind205.

XLI. EARTHQUAKE OF 1872

In the late fall of 1872, a significant earthquake struck the region206. The author was in Yakima City at the Sagebrush Saloon when the shaking began around 10 o'clock at night, causing widespread panic as residents fled their homes207. While there was no significant damage in the Yakima Valley itself, the quake caused major landslides in the Tieton Basin208. The most dramatic effect was near the mouth of the Entiat River, where a large portion of a mountain slid into the Columbia River, creating the Entiat Rapids and nearly damming the river209. An old Indian witnessed by the author attributed the event to the anger of the Great Spirit over the wicked ways of the white man210.

XLII. A GREAT INDIAN AGENT - JAMES H. WILBUR

This chapter is a tribute to Reverend James H. Wilbur, known as "Father Wilbur," who served as the Indian agent at Fort Simcoe for nearly twenty years, starting in 1864211211. Wilbur, a pioneer Methodist minister who arrived in Oregon in 1847, is portrayed as a physically powerful, deeply religious, and honorable man who worked tirelessly for the betterment of the Indians212212. Though sometimes autocratic, his fairness and genuine concern for his charges won him their respect213213213213. The chapter recounts his successful effort to have the reservation's spiritual welfare allotted to the Methodist church by President Grant and tells several anecdotes that illustrate his strong character and unwavering principles214.

XLIII. CHIEF MOSES AS I KNEW HIM

The author provides a personal account of Chief Moses, whom he first met in 1861 and considered a friend for thirty-five years215215215215. He describes Moses as a great sportsman, an intelligent diplomat, and a leader who had remarkable control over his people216216216216. The author credits Moses with preventing a widespread Indian war in the region during the 1877 Nez Perce uprising by keeping his and other tribes from joining Chief Joseph217217. Despite his flaws, including a fondness for liquor, Moses is portrayed as a powerful and impressive figure, the "Bismarck of the redmen of the Northwest," whose foresight saved the settlers from attack218218218218.

XLIV. SHU-LU-SKIN'S STORY

This chapter recounts the story of Shu-lu-skin, a descendant of the great Chief We-ow-wicht and a friend of the author for fifty years219. As a young man, Shu-lu-skin guided two white men—likely part of Stevens' survey—to the summit of Ta-ho-mah (Mt. Rainier), a place no Indian had dared to climb due to tribal tradition220. The chapter details his character as a great sportsman and a brave warrior who once stood up to Chief Moses221. It also tells of his legendary appetite, his decision to abandon his old, disagreeable wife for a beautiful young princess named Wi-yi-too-yi, and his steadfast friendship with the author222222222222.

XLV. EARLY INDIAN RELIGIONS

This chapter explores the "dreamer religion" practiced by many tribes in eastern Washington, which originated with So-wap-so, a chief of the Priest Rapids (Wi-nah-pams) Indians223. It details the rise of his successor, Smo-hal-la, who greatly expanded the cult's influence after he was presumed killed by Chief Moses, journeyed through Mexico and the Southwest, and returned claiming to have come from the spirit land224. The doctrine opposed civilization, forbidding work and farming225. The chapter also describes the similar beliefs of Ko-ti-ah-an and provides a detailed account of the ceremonial Salmon Dance, a major religious observance that celebrated the spring salmon run226.

XLVI. THE CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES

This chapter chronicles the history of the Catholic missionaries among the Yakimas, beginning in 1847 with the arrival of Oblate fathers Paschal Ricard and E. C. Chirouse at the request of Chief Ka-mi-akin227. They established the St. Rose and St. Joseph missions, but the latter was burned by volunteers during the war of 1855, who suspected the priests of aiding the Indians228. The mission on the Ahtanum was re-established in 1867 by Father Napoleon St. Onge229229. The chapter pays tribute to the tireless work of Jesuit fathers like Caruana, Raiberti, and Grassi, who dedicated their lives to the spiritual welfare of the tribes despite immense hardship and the eventual decline of their influence as the Indians' way of life vanished230230230230.

XLVII. THE INDIAN'S FIRST HORSE

The author explains that the Northwest tribes, including the Yakimas, first obtained horses around 1750 from the Sho-sho-ne (Snake) tribes to the southeast231. The ultimate origin of these horses traces back to the Spanish, who introduced them to Mexico in 1519232. The chapter details the story of Chief Pe-peu-mox-mox of the Walla Wallas, who in 1844 traveled to Sutter's Fort in California to trade for horses and cattle233233. The trip ended in tragedy when his educated son, Elijah Hedding, was murdered by an American named Grove Cook234234. This event led Pe-peu-mox-mox to wage retaliatory raids, bringing thousands of horses back to the Columbia Basin and firmly establishing the horse culture among the tribes235235235235.

XLVIII. THE PACK TRAIN

This chapter describes the vital role of the pack train in the early West, calling it the "pioneer means of transportation" for three hundred years236. The author recalls the well-equipped trains he saw on the Cariboo trail in 1861, run by famous packers like Hank and Yank and Jack Long237. He details the components of a pack train, from the Spanish

aparejo (packsaddle) to the roles of the cargadero (boss) and the arrieros (packers)238. The chapter emphasizes the skill required, especially the art of throwing the "diamond hitch," and pays homage to the hardy men and their indispensable

cayuse ponies who made commerce and settlement possible in the rugged wilderness239.

XLIX. THE GOLD HUNTERS

This chapter recounts the history of gold discoveries that spurred the development of the Northwest. The first discovery was made in 1845 by the "lost emigrants" on the Malheur River in Oregon240. The major rush began in 1858 with the discovery of gold on the Thompson and Fraser rivers in British Columbia, which drew thirty thousand miners from California alone241. After initial troubles with the Indians, prospectors pushed further into the mountains, eventually discovering the exceptionally rich Cariboo district, particularly Williams Creek, in 1861242. The author pays tribute to the hardy and hopeful prospectors, whose relentless search for gold built cities and opened the country243.

L. FIRST WAGONS

This chapter recounts the arrival of the first wagons in the region. In 1840, mountain men including Robert Newell and Jo Meek brought the first wagons across the plains from Fort Hall to the Whitman mission, finally reaching the Willamette Valley244. The first wagons to pass through the Yakima Valley belonged to an emigrant party led by James Longmire in 1853245. This group of 155 people and 36 wagons decided to leave the Oregon Trail and forge a new route to Puget Sound via the Naches Pass246. The chapter details their arduous journey up the Yakima River and across the Cascade Mountains, a feat Lieutenant George B. McClellan had deemed impossible just weeks earlier247.

LI. FIRST WAGON TRAIN FROM PRIEST RAPIDS ON COLUMBIA RIVER TO FORT KAMLOOPS ON THE THOMPSON RIVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA

This chapter describes the pioneering journey of General Joel Palmer in 1858, who established a new wagon route to the British Columbia interior248. Palmer shipped his cargo of miners' supplies via the steamer

Colonel Wright to Priest Rapids, the head of navigation on the Columbia River249. From there, he used ox-drawn wagons, following a broad Indian trail for much of the way250. The journey required difficult portages, including ferrying the wagons around Saddle Mountain in canoes and building a grade up a bluff251. His route took him through Moses Coulee and up the Okanogan Valley, eventually reaching Fort Kamloops where he sold his cargo at a large profit252.

LII. OLD OREGON PIONEERS

In this chapter, the author pays a heartfelt tribute to the pioneers who crossed the plains, especially the great emigration of 1852 to which his own family belonged253253. He describes the immense suffering and tragedy of the journey, marked by Indian massacres, a devastating cholera epidemic that killed thousands, starvation, and the loss of property254254. He recounts the story of Naomi Hays and Ann Yantis, two pioneer women who died and were buried side-by-side on the desolate banks of the Snake River255. The author praises the heroic self-sacrifice, courage, and endurance of these men and women, declaring that the Old West they created is gone, but their legacy remains256256256256.

LIII. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE INLAND NATIVE

The author provides a detailed description of the inland native tribes of the Columbian group, focusing on the Salish and Shahaptan peoples as he knew them over fifty years ago257. He briefly outlines the territories and traits of various tribes, including the Colvilles, Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes, Okanogans, Palouse, and Klickitats258. The name "Yakima," he explains, originated as a Salish nickname, "E-Yakimas" (big bellies), for the Pisch-wan-wap-pams tribe259. The chapter covers their systems of government and warfare, temperament, marriage customs, food preparation, treatment of the sick, and arts such as basketry260260260260260260260260260.

LIV. INDIAN FOLKLORE

This chapter presents several myths and legends of the Northwest Indians, which were handed down orally261. The central figure in many stories is Speel-yi (Coyote), the greatest god of the tribes262. The legend of Wish-poosh, the giant beaver, explains the creation of the Yakima River, Union Gap, and the Cascade falls through a titanic battle between Speel-yi and the monster263. Other tales include the origin of the Chinook winds, the tragic story of the beautiful maiden I-yap-pe-ah, which resembles a Trojan War saga, the tradition of the elusive "Stick Indians," and the mystery of the ancient Painted Rocks on the Naches River264264264264264264264264264.

LV. EARLY REFERENCES

This chapter serves as an almanac of "firsts" in the history of the old Oregon country. It begins with the discovery of the Columbia River by Captain Robert Gray in 1792 and the overland expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1805265. The list includes the first white woman to see the Columbia (Jane Barnes), the first fur trading posts (established by David Thompson in 1808-1809), the first grist mill (1830), the first missions (Jason Lee's in 1834), and the first cattle brought from California (1836)266. It also records the first wagons to pass through the Yakima Valley (James Longmire's party in 1853) and the first steamers to navigate the various sections of the Columbia River267.